The screen test / gutter guards examined by the people who fit them Keys Roofing, St. Louis
Gutter Guards STLThe screen test Call (314) 220-2333

Examination no. 01 / the screen family

Clean the Gutter Before the Guard Goes On

Pull the debris, check the hangers and the seams first, then ask the crew to show you what came out before the guard goes on.

A gutter guard is installed on top of whatever is already in the trough. If the trough still holds a winter of shingle grit, wet oak catkins and a packed layer of maple seeds, the guard sits on that mess instead of on clean metal. That matters for how the guard seats, how it drains, and what it hides from you for the next several seasons. Cleaning the gutter first is ordinary work, but it is often skipped when a crew is in a hurry to finish the run. This page is for a St. Louis homeowner who has already picked a guard style and wants to know what should happen before the first new piece goes up.

What should come out of the gutter first

Ask the crew to clear the full run, including the corners and the first few feet past each downspout outlet. Leaves, seed hulls, sand from the roof and granules that wash off new asphalt shingles tend to collect in the low spots, which are usually the middle of a long run and the corners where two sections meet. A quick scoop at the ends does not reach that. Granules matter in particular because they are dense and settle into a gutter as a gritty layer that holds moisture against the metal, and that layer is exactly what a guard will trap in place.

Debris should go into a bag or a bin, not onto the lawn beside the house where the next rain will wash it back toward the beds. If the crew drops anything onto the grass, ask them to rake it up before they leave. This is a small point, but it shows whether the crew is treating the gutter as part of the house or only as a surface to get past.

Check the hangers before the guard adds weight

A guard adds load to every hanger. On a run that already sags, the added weight can pull the trough further away from the fascia, and that is when a guard starts to bow between hangers. Before the crew fastens anything, they should look at each hanger and the screw or spike that holds it. In older St. Louis brick homes, hangers are often set into mortar joints, and mortar that has crumbled can let a hanger loosen with no visible sign on the surface. Pull on each hanger by hand. If one moves, the crew should reset it or add a new one, and the cost of that work should appear on paper before they start.

Look at the fascia board behind the trough too. Soft wood that gives under a thumbnail should be flagged before anyone drives a fastener into it, because a screw in soft wood will not hold a guard through a freeze and thaw cycle. If the fascia needs repair, that repair should be scheduled and priced before the guard goes on, not after the first ice load shows the problem.

Seams, end caps and the downspout opening

Before the guard goes on, look at the seams and end caps of the gutter itself. A gutter that leaks at a joint will keep leaking under a guard, and the leak will be harder to see because the guard covers the trough. Water running from a joint can stain the fascia and the siding below, and in winter it can freeze at a corner and push the section out of line. Ask the crew to check each end cap and each seam, and to flag any that weep. If a seam leaks, the repair belongs on the same quote as the guard, not on a later call.

The downspout outlet needs a look as well. An outlet packed with debris or a crimped elbow will back water up the trough no matter what sits on top. Run water through the gutter with a hose at the high end, watch where it goes, and see whether it reaches the downspout quickly. The water should keep moving. If it sits in the trough at one spot, that spot is where the next overflow will start, and a guard will not change that.

Why the guard hides the problem

A guard turns the gutter into a surface you cannot easily see into. That is why this check has to happen before the guard, not after. Once the guard is locked in place, the homeowner looks at a flat cover and assumes the trough is clean. Water staining, sagging and a clogged outlet all happen under the guard where they do not show. A clean and checked gutter gives the guard something sound to sit on.

The cleanup also gives you a baseline. Take photos of the trough before the guard goes on, showing the joints, the hanger spacing and the downspout outlet. Those photos are useful later, whether you are tracing a leak back to its source or deciding when to schedule the next look at the run.

What to ask the crew before they start

Keep the list short and specific. Ask these questions before the first section is lifted:

  • Will the crew clear the full run, including the corners and each downspout outlet, before the guard is set?
  • Where will the debris go, and who takes it away?
  • Which hangers will be checked for movement, and what happens if one is loose?
  • Will the seams and end caps be checked for leaks, and will any repair be written on the quote?
  • Will the crew run water through the gutter and watch the outlet before they leave?
  • Will you get photos of the cleaned trough before the guard goes on?

What the written scope should separate

If Keys Roofing is the contractor on your job, the written scope should list the cleaning, any hanger or seam work, any fascia repair and the guard itself as separate lines. Separate lines let you see what each part costs and what each part does, and they make it clear which work is already done before the guard is set. If a line is missing, ask about it before you sign. Questions about your particular run can go to the office at (314) 220-2333 before the crew is scheduled.

When the cleanup is not enough

Some runs come back dirty again within a season. If the gutter sits under a tree that drops seeds every spring, or if the roof sheds granules faster than expected, the first cleaning may not be the last. Plan for a second look after the first heavy rains of spring and again in late fall, when leaves come down after the first hard freeze. A guard reduces how often debris builds up in the trough, but it does not remove the need to check the outlet and the joints.

St. Louis winters add a second kind of stress. Water that gets into a joint freezes and expands, and a seam that seeped in October can open wider by February. That is one more reason to check the seams before the guard goes on rather than assuming the trough is sound because it looked fine from the ground.

Screen guards

Ask before the mesh goes on, not after

The two questions that decide whether a screen guard works on your house are how old the roof above it is and how the guard is going to be fastened. Both are answerable before anybody quotes you.

Keys Roofing will look at the gutter and the roof together, because on a screen guard they are one problem.

(314) 220-2333

Straight to the Keys office. Roofing, gutters and downspouts across greater St. Louis. No siding, no windows, no commercial work.

A name and a number is enough. Someone from Keys will call you back.