Examination no. 01 / the screen family
Ask How Fast a Gutter Guard Lets Water In During a Cloudburst
A guard can slow water entering the trough in hard rain, so ask each seller for its intake rate and test your eave before you order.
The rain that tests a gutter guard is not the steady drizzle that fills a rain barrel over an afternoon. It is the hard burst that comes through a St. Louis thunderstorm in twenty minutes and sends a sheet of water off the roof faster than the gutter can take it. A guard sits on top of the trough, so every drop headed for the trough has to pass through or over the guard first. Whether it gets in fast enough is a question most sales visits skip.
This page is for the homeowner who has a guard quote in hand and wants one more fact before signing. The question is intake: how quickly water crosses the guard surface and drops into the trough during a heavy rain. Intake is separate from clog resistance, separate from ice load, and separate from how well the guard keeps leaves out. A guard can do all three well and still send a stream over the front lip when the rain gets heavy, because the trough was never built to take that full volume in one burst.
Why intake is a different rating
Guard products are usually sold on what they keep out. Leaves, pine needles, seed pods and shingle grit are the promises on the box. Intake is the cost of that promise. A fine mesh stops debris but also slows water. A perforated metal cover lets water through its holes at a different rate than a fine mesh does, and it can let grit settle on top, which narrows the path over time. Foam inserts absorb water and can hold it in the trough longer than the bare metal would. A reverse curve surface relies on the water clinging to the curve, and a very hard sheet can overshoot the curve and fall past the front edge.
None of these tradeoffs is a defect. They are the reason a guard has to be matched to the roof it serves. A guard that handles a light, steady rain well may behave differently in the first ten minutes of a summer cell, and that first ten minutes is when a trough is most likely to overflow.
What the seller should be able to show you
A seller who knows the product can answer a few questions in writing without hedging. Ask for any published flow or capacity figure, the rainfall rate it was measured at, and the test method or lab behind it. If the product has no published flow number, say so and ask what the company has tested and how. A missing number is not automatically a problem, but it means you are buying on the look of the product and the word of the person selling it.
Ask for these items before you compare prices:
- The model name, the material gauge, and the mesh or perforation size as written on the box or spec sheet.
- Any published water flow figure, the rainfall rate it was measured at, and the source of that figure.
- Whether the guard was tested on a slope similar to yours, and at what gutter pitch.
- What the seller expects to happen at the front edge when a burst exceeds the rated flow.
- Which downspouts the seller counted for each run, since a guard does not change how fast each outlet can drain.
Run a simple intake check on your own eave
You can get a rough reading with a garden hose, a bucket and a watch. Choose the longest run that drains to one downspout. Run the hose along the guard at the far end of that run, not at the downspout, and hold a steady flow for one minute. Watch two things: how much water goes over the front edge or off the back of the guard, and whether the trough at the downspout end is filling faster than it drains. This is not a laboratory flow test, and it will not match a sales number, but it shows whether the guard face is holding water back at your house.
If you can see a guard already installed on a neighbor's house, ask the owner how it has handled a hard storm. A test on a stock section tells you how the product sheds water. A look at an installed run tells you what the installer did with the pitch, the hangers and the seams, and it shows the product after a season of grit. Both matter. Keep the check to the one run you care about, and write down the time, the amount of water you poured and what you saw at each point along the run.
Where intake fails first in St. Louis
Steep roof pitches push water into the gutter at speed, and an afternoon storm can deliver more water in ten minutes than a normal week of drizzle. Long runs with a single downspout concentrate the load at the outlet, so a guard that looks fine across twenty feet can overflow near the downspout end. Older houses with half-round gutters or narrow troughs have less cross section to begin with, and a guard set over a narrow trough leaves less room for water to pass beneath the mesh.
Debris changes the numbers too. Fine grit from the shingles settles on a fine mesh over the years and cuts flow. A single storm can push a layer of wet debris onto the guard face, and a damp layer holds water on top of the mesh longer than a dry one. A guard that passed a hose test on installation day may behave differently after its first heavy season, which is why the trough should be checked after the first big storm and not only at the first walk-through.
What to write into the proposal
The proposal should carry the intake question in its own line, not buried inside a product description. The contractor writing it can state the guard model, the run lengths, the downspout count, and the rated or published flow they are relying on. If the proposal says a guard keeps the trough clear, ask which test that claim rests on. If the proposal is silent on intake, ask for a line stating that the guard was installed to the manufacturer's pitch and hanger spacing, and that the downspout outlets were counted for each run.
A proposal that answers the question should list:
- Each run, its length in feet, and the downspout that drains it.
- The guard model and the rated or published flow for that model, with a note if no figure exists.
- The gutter pitch the installer will set, and the check they will make after the guard is fastened.
- Whether any run drains onto a short or partly blocked outlet that a guard change could strain.
- A walk-through date after the first heavy storm, with photographs of the trough and the guard face.
That last line is the one most often left out. A guard can look right on the day it goes on, and the only real test of its intake is the first hard rain that comes after the crew leaves. Ask who will look at the trough after that storm and how the result will be written down.
When the number is not enough
Some houses collect more water than a guard can pass, usually at a long run with one downspout or on a steep slope that feeds a short gutter. In that case a guard is not the whole answer. A second downspout, a larger trough, or a different guard type may be the fix, and those decisions belong in the scope before anyone orders material. Changing the downspout count is a change to the job, so it should appear in the written proposal with its own price line, not as a note at the bottom.
Keys Roofing puts that scope in writing, with photos and measurements, so the decision stays with the homeowner. Questions about the proposal, the run or the outlet count can go to the Keys office at (314) 220-2333. Ask for the intake answer in writing before you sign, and keep the page of the proposal that states it.
Screen guards
Ask before the mesh goes on, not after
The two questions that decide whether a screen guard works on your house are how old the roof above it is and how the guard is going to be fastened. Both are answerable before anybody quotes you.
Keys Roofing will look at the gutter and the roof together, because on a screen guard they are one problem.
Straight to the Keys office. Roofing, gutters and downspouts across greater St. Louis. No siding, no windows, no commercial work.